My brother Bruce, writer and summertime resident of the high sierras, took me climbing on Friday, July 13 to a place called Pine Creek, known only to a local few. Located just a few minutes drive outside of Bishop, California, many of the routes are new within the last couple of years. This is mostly sport climbing, with nicely bolted routes scattered all over the beautiful granite walls. The approach was just a short walk up a rocky, dirt road and trail leading to the base of the climbs. Bruce started the day's climbing leading the first pitch of a two pitch climb rated 5.10c. I can't write the name here because the guide book is in the final stages of publication and I was sworn to secrecy. The climb was classic, leading up and through a short crack system to the fishhooks at the top of the pitch. I followed my brother, still feeling tired from the altitude and long plane flight. When I reached my brother at the belay anchor I rested a moment and then took the lead on the second pitch. The crux of this pitch came right at the beginning and it didn't seem possible to me. I fell twice and even begged to be relieved of the leading duties, a request my brother repeatedly turned down. With a move that was more desperation than good technique I managed to get past the crux and continue up onto a face that required delicate moves over crimping holds to a small ledge at the top of the pitch. It was a good warmup.
We rappelled down the face, not back to where we started but to the top of a 5.11b climb that Bruce wanted to do on top-rope. That was the next climb and it was quite a challenge, though psychologically much easier on top-rope. After that climb we walked a few feet down the wall and climbed another 5.10b route, followed by another 5.11d climb on top-rope. At this point, mostly due to my desperate moves at the crux of the first climb, my hands and fore-arms were shot. With the light in the canyon fading into evening, we did one more climb (a lovely 5.9 with a distinctly mountaineering flavor) and called it a day.
It was a great first day of climbing. Bruce and I each climbed five pitches of beautiful granite and came home happy for some relaxation by the river.
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